Build guide
Welcome to the build guide! Before you assemble, make sure you grab everything you need– tools, printed parts and ordered parts.
All hardware is M3 unless otherwise stated.
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Print the parts
The parts are sliced for 1-click printing on a Bambulab X1C, but check out the Printed Parts page for more very important information. -
Install the software
Use the Software Guide to install the required software on to the Raspberry Pi and SKR Pico. The SKR Pico is hard to reach once the Lemontron is assembled! -
Insert the screws
Drop two 40mm button heads into the holes. -
Scrape the mating surface flat
Using a blade, lightly scrape the surface. This will remove any gaps and make the parts fit together beautifully. -
Screw in the spine
Secure it with 5 14mm countersinks. -
Install the posts
Onto a 20mm button head, drop a 12mm washer, small bearing, another washer, a yellow spring that's been cut in half, and a nut. -
Gather Z-Axis parts
Gather the Z-Axis (Printed), Bracket (Printed), MGW9C Linear Rail, Several 6mm Countersunk Screws, 2 x 25mm Countersunk Screws, M5 Shims, M5 Bearings, Lead screw & Nut, Drive Pulley, and Belt. -
Insert the bearings
Insert the two bearings into the bottom seats. Optionally, insert an additional bearing in the top seat. -
Insert the lead screw
Insert the lead screw through so that it just pokes through the bottom bearing. -
Drop in the first shim
Drop in the first shim. This shim allows the bearing to turn while pressing against the drive pulley. -
Drop in the drive pulley
Drop in the drive pulley with the belt pre-installed. Advance the lead screw flush with the top of the pulley. -
Fish in the second shim
Use something thin to fish in the second shim. Push the lead screw all the way through. -
Add the bracket
After securing the nut to the bracket, install the bracket onto the lead screw. -
Cut the lead screw
Align the lead screw's top with the top of the bearing seat and CUT the bottom off. -
Tighten grub screws
Tighten the grub screws. -
Install the rail
Lay down the rail, give it a few love taps, and secure it with 6mm countersinks. -
Gather edge connector parts
Cut approximately 50cm of silicone power wire and signal wires. -
Solder the power wires
Fan out the wire strands, and use the wire to bridge the two conductors as shown. Twist the end. Solder. Trim the excess. -
Solder the signal wires
Solder two thin gauge signal wires to the two middle conductors. -
Sleeve the wires
Cut the wire sleeve to 32cm and finesse it onto the wires. -
Cut the wires
Cut the power wire to 44cm and the signal wires to 42cm. -
Tin the power wires
Strip 5mm of insulation from the power wires and tin them. -
Crimp signal wires
Crimp the two signal wires. Learn how to crimp goooood here. -
Insert connector
Insert the two crimped signal wires into the JST connector. Polarity does not matter. -
Slide in edge connector wire
Slide the wires in through the slot in the bracket and press the edge connector into place. -
Tighten bracket
Tighten the bracket on to the carriage with two 25mm countersunk screws. -
Gather Lemonstruder parts
Top & bottom halfs (Printed), super glue, yellow spring, 8mm countersunk screw, small bearing, 2 small shims (Off frame, sorry) -
Glue halves together
Dap two tiny dots of super glue as pictured. -
Insert the first shim
Insert the first shim, using a small screw to help guide it in. This shim will allow the bearing to rotate against the plastic housing. -
Insert the bearing
Insert the bearing on top of the shim. -
Insert the second shim
Using tweezers, insert the second shim between the bearing and the plastic housing. -
Insert the screw
Insert the screw, pushing out the small screw. This screw is designed to not fit completely flush. -
Insert the spring
Insert the unmodified yellow boinger. -
Insert the Lemonstruder
Insert the Lemonstruder into the left top plate. -
Cut motor wires
Cut the motor wires to the lengths 15cm, 15cm, 10cm, 23cm. -
Crimp motor wires
Crimp every motor wire. -
Insert the crimps into the connector
Starting from the triangle mark, go in order of black, green, blue, red. -
Gather parts for the tool
Tool body (printed), hotend, small fan, big fan, probe, connectors, crimps, power wires (silicone), signal wires, M2.5 screws, pcb. -
Tighten the heat break
The heat break is loose from the factory. You need to rebuild the hotend. -
Modify the part cooling fan
Completely remove the two mounting tabs and wire retaining clip. -
Push the wires through
Push the part cooling fan wires through the cavity of the tool head. -
Drop in the hotend
The hotend will smoosh the wires and keep them in place. Now is a good time to strip the wires. -
Fasten the hotend
Use 6mm screws to attach the hotend to the tool body. -
Fasten the probe
Use 6mm screws to fasten the probe to the tool body. -
Insert small fan
Insert the small fan and push it under the ledge so that it's touching the head sink. -
Drop in the part cooling fan
Finish dropping in the cooling fan to lock everything in place. -
Tin the pcb
Apple some solder to hasten the wire bonding. -
Fasten the pcb
Fasten the pcb to the heat sink using 6mm M2.5 screws. -
Solder the hotend fan
Solder the hotend fan (small fan) to the pads on the pcb. -
Solder the part cooling fan
Solder the part cooling fan (big fan) to the pads on the pcb. -
Solder the heater
Clip and strip the wires at the end of the heat shrink tube. Solder to the pads on the pcb. -
Shorten the thermistor spring
Clip the spring in half. -
Solder the thermistor
Clip and strip the wires and solder them to the pads on the pcb. -
Plug in & solder the probe
Plug in the probe and split off one of the grounds (black or brown) and solder it to the pad. You can reuse this wire so don't throw it away. -
Solder the heater wire
Solder the heater wire. Don't solder it as pictured. The pcb is literally labelled, I don't know why I flipped it but I did. I will replace this picture later. -
Solder the thermistor wire
Using the leftover wire from the probe, solder the thermistor signal wire. -
Solder the fan wires
Cut two wires roughly to 50cm and solder them to the two fan pads on the pcb. -
Wrap the wires
Use 47cm of wire sleeve to wrap the wires. -
Insert the clamp
Clamp down the wires by pushing in the clamp and securing it with a 10mm M2.5 screw. -
Clip the tool wires
Cut the heater wire and probe wires to 53cm, the rest to 55cm. -
Tin the heater wires
Trim back 5mm off the heater wires and tin the ends. -
Crimp the thermistor wire
Crimp the thermistor wire and insert it into the connector side without the marking. -
Crimp the hotend fan wire
Crimp the hotend fan wire and insert it into the connector side without the marking. -
Crimp the part cooling fan wire
Crimp the part cooling fan wire and insert it into the connector side without the marking. -
Crimp the probe sensor wires
Crimp the probe sensor wires and insert them into position 2 & 3 as shown. -
Crimp the probe servo wires
Crimp the probe servo wires and insert them as shown; black on the marking, white on the other position. -
Gather the chassis parts
This is the rest of the parts! Draw the rest of the horse! -
Insert the heat set inserts
Insert the 6 inserts in the bottom holes using a soldering iron or heat set insert tool. These 10mm long threaded inserts are super strong. -
Clean up the inserts
After pushing in the inserts, clean up with a razor. -
Insert the top z-block insert
Insert the top z-block insert from the top. -
Insert the bottom z-block inserts
Insert the bottom two z-block inserts from the rear. -
Insert the vertical chassis stiffeners
O P T I O N A L
Optionally add the two M4 45mm stiffeners. -
Insert the horizontal chassis stiffeners
O P T I O N A L
Optionally add the two M5 80mm stiffeners. -
Insert the AC input jack
Slide in the AC jack and fasten with two 14mm wafer heads. -
Modify PSU
Bevel the two corners of the PSU that face outwards. The cut should bisect the screw post holes. -
Link the fans together
Wire two chassis fans in parallel so that the wire is long enough to reach the ports on the left of the MCU. -
Insert the right fan
Insert the fan and secure the bottom two screw holes with 14mm wafer heads. -
Insert the left fan
Insert the fan and secure the bottom two screw holes with 14mm wafer heads. -
Plug in the fans
Plug in the chassis fans to the top port of the MCU. -
Plug in the power wires
Connect the power wires to the PSU and cut to length, tin the ends, and plug in. The gauge of these wires should be 18AWG or thicker. 14AWG is the largest wire the terminal blocks can accept. -
Plug in the probe connectors
Connect the two probe connectors as shown- B/W on top, Y/R on bottom. -
Plug in the hotend heater wires
Insert the two heater wires into the top terminal block. -
Plug in the hotend thermistor connector
Insert the thermistor wire into the bottom left port. -
Plug in the hotend fan connector
Insert the hotend fan connector into the second port. -
Plug in the part cooling fan connector
Insert the part cooling fan connector into the third port. -
Plug in the bed thermistor
Bring over the z-axis and insert the heat bed thermistor connector next to the hotend thermistor. -
Plug in the bed heater
Insert the heat bed power wires into the middle terminal block and tighten. -
Insert the motors
Bottom right motor has 15cm wire, bottom left has 23cm wire, top left has 15cm wire, top right has 10cm wire. -
Plug in the motors
From left to right, port 1 is the top right (extruder) motor, port 2 is the bottom left (A) motor, port 3 is the bottom right motor (B), port 4 is the top left (Z-Axis) motor. -
Solder the serial connector
Solder the Raspberry Pi connector as shown. You can also try using right angle pins! -
Plug in the Raspberry Pi
Connect the Raspberry Pi to the serial port. -
Smush the MCU
Smoosh the wires up and press the MCU into place. -
Install the first riser
Install the left riser, constraining all the wires that are plugged in to the ports on the left side of the MCU. -
Screw in the first riser
Flip it over and fix the riser in place with two 8mm countersunks. -
Insert the second riser
Likewise, install the second riser, covering all wires except for the extruder motor's wires. -
Attach Raspberry Pi
Use four 5mm button heads to attach the Raspberry Pi. -
Insert nut
Insert a nut onto the Y-Rail (MGN12C) by pulling it in from behind with a screw. -
Install tensioner
On the same rail, install the tensioner over the nut. -
Prepare two posts
Onto a 12mm wafer head, drop a big bearing, a shim, and a washer. -
Install the posts
Install the bearing posts into the tensioner. -
Install the rail
Slide in the rail. You might want to tap it down with a mallet. Verify the wires that run under the rail are tidy. -
Fasten the rail
Using 14mm countersunks, fasten the rail to the chassis. You must go slow, alternate short rotations and don't overheat the plastic. -
Insert the bonus screw
From the bottom, fasten the rail tightly to the chassis using a 20mm countersunk. -
Tape the motors
Tape the motors. Without tape, the motor wires will walk around. You need to tape it before installing the mid plates. -
Install the right midplate
Drop the right midplate on top of the motors, making sure you can press it flat. Verify from every angle that there is no gap. -
Secure the right motors
Secure the motors to the right midplate, filling the four countersunk motor mount holes with 8mm countersunks. -
Install the extra screw
Add another 20mm countersunk to further secure the midplate to the chassis. -
Install the lower pulley
Onto a 30mm wafer head, drop a big bearing, a medium shim, and a big washer. Screw it all the way through the chassis. -
Install extruder gear
On the top left motor, and using several fingers, line up the top of the extruder gear with a pulley and fasten the grub screw to the flat side of the shaft. -
Install left midplate
Insert the wire harnesses into the slots in the midplate and lay the midplate into position. Verify there is no gap. -
Tug the cables
Remove the slack in the cables. -
Insert the motor mount screws
Secure the motors to the left midplate, filling the four countersunk motor mount holes with 8mm countersunks. -
Insert the lower pulley
Same as the right one. -
Insert the upper pulley
Same as the right one. -
Install the extra screw
Add another 20mm countersunk to further secure the midplate to the chassis. -
Finish right fan
Secure the top two screw holes with wafer head M3 14mm. -
Finish left fan
Secure the top two screw holes with wafer head M3 14mm. -
Install left drive pulley
Temporarily put two sheets of paper under the pulley before tightening the grub screw to the flat side of the shaft. If there are two grub screws, tighten them both but one should be on the flat side of the shaft. -
Install right drive pulley
Repeat on the right. Verify the pulleys are friction-free by grabbing the pulley forcefully and rotating it a full circle. If it catches on something, it's going to show up in your prints. -
Modify X rail
Cut one hole off the X rail (MGN9C). -
Install right drive pulley
Add a nut to both sides of the rail. -
Create bearing posts
On a 14mm wafer head, drop a big bearing and a medium shim. -
Install bearing posts
On both sides of the rail tighten down both bearing posts. -
Drop on the spacer
Drop the spacer (printed) onto the Y axis carriage. -
Attach the X rail
Drop the X rail on top of the spacer and screw it in with two 20mm countersunks. -
Create bearing towers
On a 16mm wafer or button head, drop a big bearing, a medium shim, a large washer, a small shim, a small flanged bearing, small shim, small normal bearing, and small shim. -
Install bearing towers
Screw the two bearing towers into the top positions in the Y carriage. -
Cut a piece of belt
Cut a piece of belt that precisely fits into the recess in the belt clip. -
Dap some super glue
O P T I O N A L
Dap some super glue on the belt. The glue is not required, but it really makes it easier to put the belt into the clip. -
Link the belts
Hold the long piece of belt to the short one, overlapping half of it as shown. -
Insert one side
Insert the belt into the clip and verify that the short belt is seated properly. -
Insert the other side
Insert the other side of the belt temporarily. You can trim it later. -
Lubricate belts
Lubricate the sides of the belt (not the teeth) with silicone based lube. Don't AT me for using sex lube, it's a joke. -
Route the belts
Hook the belt over the towers, placing it on the lowest bearing. -
Around the lower bearings
Hook the lower bearings. -
Around the upper bearings
Wrapping around the drive pulleys, hook the upper bearings. -
Around the tensioner
Wrap the belts around the tensioner bearings, the two strands coming down the middle. -
Around the tower again
Hook the tower bearings, this time the upper ones, heading out to the X rail bearings. -
Around the X rail
Route the belt around the X rail. Trim the excess and reattach the belt to the clip. -
Screw in the tensioner
Push the tensioner towards the Z block, then using a 20mm countersunk, fix the tensioner in place. This should be super loose. -
Thoroughly test
Thoroughly test and tune the belt tension. When you feel that the friction is negligible, it's ready. -
Install top plates
Drop in the two top plates. -
Fasten the outer screws
Fasten the top plates to the chassis on the 6 outer holes along the edges with 25mm (or 20mm) countersunks. -
Fasten the inner screws
Fasten the top plates to the motors on the 4 inner holes with 14mm countersunks (bonus points if you fabricate 15mm countersunks for a better fit). -
Attach the tool head
Drop on the tool head. -
Screw on the tool head
Screw on the tool head with two 14mm countersunks. -
Attach the belt clip
Flip over the printer and attach the clip with two 10mm M2.5 countersunks. -
Attach the Z idler arm
Attach the z idler arm. To make the bearing stack, on a 14mm wafer head, drop a big bearing, medium shim, big bearing, and medium shim. -
Attach the Z axis
Hook the Z axis drive belt on the pulley. Drop the Z axis into place. Tighten the idler arm. -
Screw in Z axis
Screw in the Z axis. Rev B uses two 16mm button heads instead of the countersunks shown in the picture. -
Rough up bowden tube
Rough up at least 1cm of the bowden tube. -
Pour glue on bowden tube
Pour a generous amount of glue on the end of the bowden tube. -
Insert the bowden tube
Insert the bowden tube into the top plates. There is a lot of clearance, so the glue will go all the way down. -
Zip tie the bowden tube
Zip tie the bowden tube with 2 zip ties, one at 10cm, another at 20cm. -
Mark the bowden tube
Holding the tube approximately where it needs to go, mark the bowden tube as pictured. -
Cut the bowden tube
SNIP, SNIP! The end needs to be as straight as possible. -
Insert bowden tube
Insert the bowden tube all the way into the tool end. -
Insert the clip
While still putting pressure on the bowden tube, pull out the collar and install the orange clip. -
Attach the bed holder
Attach the bed holder to the Z carriage with the two captive screws. -
Slide in the bed
Slide the bed into the spring-loaded posts. -
You've reached the end!
You just built the whole thing. Now wash up, you're probably covered in solder fumes. -
Sike you've not reached the end!
Use the handy guide to do your one-time calibration.
Follow the old machinists tapping tip which is to drive the screw in, back it out, and
drive it in some more, over and over. This is the only way you'll be able to reuse the plastic threads next time you
disassemble it.
Manufacturer's Differences
If your nut is countersunk, use countersunk screws. If not, you can countersink it, or use button head screws.
It makes no difference.
Note for the armchair experts who cry about ferrules
If I hear one more idiotic comment about your stupid ferrules, I will find a tiny ferrule
for your tiny benis and clamp it so hard that you'll wish I would use the iron instead.
Electrical Shock Warning
If caution is not exercised, this device has the potential to cause harm through injuries, burns, and
electrical shocks. Do not become complacent!
But loose belt? Is Lemontron a moron?
You should feel the elasticity, and you should not be able to strum the belt. Why? Because it's not CoreXY!
With only one belt and the same amount of friction total.
Surely there's a better way?
Sometimes the simple solutions are the best. With the absurd contact patch of about 2cm², the glue will hold
the tube until the end of time.